Travel and so much more…… Aai’s Legacy.

It’s been some time since I wrote on this blog, and has been difficult to get back to it as well.  I started writing this in May and it is almost the end of August.  Grief comes in stages. There are days when things seem normal and on other days just looking at something triggers a memory and I burst into tears.  I don’t think there is anything that prepares one to lose a mother.  Sometimes pain is so unbearable that you cannot fathom how you can possibly endure it and carry on. If we’re lucky, somewhere deep down inside of us, we muster an unimaginable strength to pick ourselves up in the most devastating of times. Everyone says,” remember the happy days”, but somehow every time my thoughts go back to the last few days of her life.  Losing her has left a void in my life which is hard to fill, especially every evening as 6pm approaches I look at the clock with a heavy heart.  This was the time I would Skype with her.  For the last 12 years after my father’s demise, this was my routine to call her and talk with her.  She would tell me everything she was planning and doing.  Her travels and adventures in Africa, which was her favourite destination.  She loved to travel and has passed on her legacy to me .  She always said “travel and enjoy people”. I miss her enormously every day and hope to continue her legacy of travel as she would not expect anything less from me.  So I have finally picked up my courage to start writing again.
EVERYONE SHE KNEW HAS A FOND STORY TO TELL.
She taught many to cook,
sew, embroider,
garden and especially to grow orchids.  Her passion for growing orchids was picked up my many.  Magazines and newspapers interviewed her as an expert on Orchid growing.  Besides having her own greenhouse for the Orchids, she would have an open house once a year, where people in the city were allowed to come and view the fantastic blooms that would flourish in her garden. Knitting toys to perfection was another skill she mastered. Many family members and friends have these toys as a memory of her.
As a child, I was taught many of these skills during summer vacation, for which I am eternally grateful. This is what helped me in a sewing business that I ran successfully for 10 years!   Aai was a stickler for perfection.  Whenever anyone showed her a completed piece of sewing, she would look at the back of the item to make sure the finish was perfect.  If something was wrong it had to be undone and redone so as to not make a habit of learning something wrong.  Of course, at the time one would feel its expecting too much.  But I know for a fact, that it’s this kind of perfection that has etched a memory in people’s mind of how she expected everyone to excel in whatever they did.
ITS THE SIMPLE THINGS THAT HAVE THE BIGGEST IMPACT
My mother was a beautiful woman inside and out who lead by example.  She endured this dreadful disease of cancer, and even on her worst days she was more inspiring than most.  She was a stern when needed, but my best friend at the same time.  She told me that no matter what happens, I have to stand tall. Her legacy lives in me.  There is a lot of responsibility, in being someone’s legacy. I live every day so that when I’m gone, my friends and family will look back on my life, just as they do my Aai and say that it was well lived—that I made an impact. I want people to know that no matter the degree of grief or sadness, I strive to see the positive in everything because a life well-loved is a life well lived, no matter the circumstances.
~~~~~~THE PICTURES OF THE ORCHIDS ARE FROM AAI’S GARDEN~~~~~~~

Sri Lanka – Colorful Hot and Humid

A side trip from India was planned a few months back.  Our best friends were traveling with us to Sri Lanka. When I stepped out for the first time in the morning I could only admire this beautiful King Coconut tree in front of our hotel with lush green leaves and the bright golden yellow coconuts in bunches.  So colorful.
A short flight of 2 and half hours from Mumbai brought us into Colombo late evening.  We had arranged for a car and driver and as expected, the driver was waiting with our name card.  We greeted him and after loading our luggage into the Toyota Minivan, we started towards our hotel.  The driver informed us that it would take an hour to get to the hotel.  I was surprised that the airport is really far away from Colombo city.  It was night so we were really not able to get an idea of the landscape.  An hour later we arrived at our hotel, only to be informed that the hotel was overbooked and we were going to be sent to another property.  Our arrival in Sri Lanka did not start off on the right foot.  We transferred to the other hotel and got our rooms.  We were tired, having traveled all day, at 11 pm we finally retired.
We woke up to a beautiful morning in Colombo.  Parting the curtains I was presented with the most amazing view of the Indian ocean and the Marine road that spread before us.  Our excitement had started building up as we were due to head off for Kandy, a hill-station.  The moment we got out of our air-conditioned hotel to board our minivan, the heat and humidity hit us.  We had packed all cotton clothing for the tropics but were not mentally prepared for the weather.  But we had to deal with it now that we were spending 7 days in this island nation.
Our first stop en route to Kandy was The elephant orphanage.  Here orphaned elephants are given shelter and cared for all their lives as they are not capable of fending for themselves in the wild.  We saw approximately 20-25 elephants in this orphanage, including baby elephants.  We fed them small tree branches that disappeared in a few seconds in their mouths and they would come back for more.  The orphanage keepers feed the little baby elephants with bottles of milk.   It was funny to see the milk bottles getting empty in a short time.  The elephants then were taken to the local river for a bath.  It was interesting to see how the elephants actually step in the water and then lie down on their sides and sleep in the water while spraying their bodies with the river water and silt.  This was quite a scene, well worth a stop or a few hours.
At the Elephant Orphanage
Going for their daily bath at the river
stepping slowly in the water
immersing
Lying down
blowing water over themselves with their trunks
An amazing sight
They enjoy the water
sleeping in the water for more than half hour
We then drove on further to Kandy, reaching there late evening.  Two stops were made before reaching Kandy. One to eat the delicious Pineapple grown here.  It’s sprinkled lightly with salt and chili powder and once you start eating you don’t want to stop.  Seeing rows of King Coconut trees and vendors along the roadside, our second stop was to drink this thirst quenching natural beverage, “The King Coconut”. After arriving in Kandy, we decided to carry on and make other visits as we did not find much to do in Kandy.  Making a side trip to Dambulla, that was not planned was discussed even though we did not really want to sit in a car for long drives on winding roads.
Amazing view of the Plains from Dambulla Golden temple.
The next day, after a lot of deliberation, we decided to take a drive up to Dambulla, a world heritage site with a Buddha temple carved out in a cave in the mountain.  It is also called the Golden Temple of Dambulla.  It is about 72 km’s from Kandy and located on a rock which is about 160 meters over the surrounding plains.  The climb was not easy as the steps were uneven and at certain places, there were no steps.  The heat and humidity continued to be very intense.  The view from the top was breathtaking.  But we had made up our minds to climb and make it to the top and see this famous temple.  And we did.  Paintings and statues in the 5 caves are well preserved and show the history of Gautama Buddha.  You also get a fantastic view of the plains around the rock. Climbing down was as difficult due to the heat.  Once down at the foot of the hill we were glad to get back into our air-conditioned minivan.  We returned to Kandy after midday and went to the Temple of the tooth ( Buddha’s tooth).  The tooth is encased in a Gold Stupa and is not really seen.  So is the tooth really there is the question? Before leaving Kandy, we also saw a local Kandyan folk dance which was graceful and full of energy.
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The following day we drove to Nuwara Eliya.  High country sprawled with Tea Estates.  The temperature had started dropping as we headed higher.  The road was winding and narrow.  The climb was gradual, but after a while, my husband started feeling the altitude.  Hoping that he does not get any altitude sickness, we continued bravely. Nuwara Eliya is at 6000ft.
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The famous Epic Ramayana and  Ashokvan where Sita was kept by Ravana is also on the way to Nuwara Eliya.  We visited the Sita Amma Temple where Sita was believed to have been kept captive by Ravana. The holes in the rocks near the temple are believed to be the footprints of Ravana’s elephant.  This is also called Seetha Eliya.
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We arrived at our destination late evening as the road from Nuwara Eliya to the hotel was a one car road.  We had to get there before dark.
The Heritance Tea Factory
located 6800 ft above sea level was where we were booked.  A former tea factory has been converted into a plush hotel.  A very British atmosphere greeted us with  a warm welcome from the staff offering petite cups of tea on trays.  It is an art to brewing this delicious beverage called “Tea”.  Our taste buds were alive with the rich taste and aromas in our hotel.  Did you know that a drop of vanilla in tea can sweeten it without having to add sugar?  Umm…delicious…left us craving for more.
We had dinner at their “Very British” restaurant.  The staff was ever present behind you, and I could now gather why the British loved this area.  Not just the cool climate but the beautiful surroundings with tea plantations and flora and fauna that is only found at higher altitude. It was magic!   After dinner, we retired to our room which also
reminded one of the “Raj” periods of the British.   It rained very heavily that night.  We could hear the drops falling on the tin roof of the hotel. Thunder and lighting showing their best display high above the earth. We woke up to a beautiful clear morning, everything was washed and clean with the night’s rains.  Breakfast in the morning was also a grand spread of Sinhalese, and European food.  My favorite being the egg white appam.  After a sumptuous breakfast, it was time again for us to go to our next destination.   Reluctantly and with sadness, we left this beautiful lush green region of the Tea Lords of Sri Lanka.
Our drive to Bentota was six hours long.  The roads are good in Sri Lanka.  It’s the traffic that kills the speed.  We were headed to the beach and were going to stay there for 2 nights.  We had decided no sightseeing once we reach there and to chill at the resort.  It had been a hectic 5 days of driving, and we wanted some time to unwind and relax.  Our resort was right on the beach.  Felt I was in Goa on arrival.  The coconut trees and the balmy air, relaxed atmosphere was a nice change to the hectic road trip.
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The resort (and we have been to a few by now) was typical, designed for the tour bus travelers.  As expected, there were several groups of tours staying at the hotel.  Large buffet meals were served for dinners and breakfasts.  We did not care about the food so much, we were just chilling out her and enjoying the sun, beach, the umbrella drinks and good sleep at night in air-conditioned cooled rooms.  A plus was the entertainment at the bar each night.  We witnessed a Bollywood dance show.  We did do a short boat ride on the backwaters in Bentota and saw a couple of water Monitor lizards lazing on branches and baby crocodiles resting their snouts on roots in the water.
So lucky to have seen and clicked this photo! Nature at its best.
Our last halt was once again Colombo.  I saw an amazing view from my hotel window.  Heavy rain falling on one side of the ocean and clear on the other.  We loved Colombo. It is a very clean city.  Rich in history and building that are well preserved till this day.  Our friends did some souvenir shopping.  We watched them shop as you all know we do not collect things anymore.  Our memories our are treasures.  Our Sri Lanka trip was, even more, memorable as we had our best friends travel with us.  Their company, with lots of fun and laughter, will remain with us forever.
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Paris… c’est la vie!

Art in Paris
“I guess it goes to show that you just never know where life will take you. You search for answers. You wonder what it all means. You stumble, and you soar. And, if you’re lucky, you make it to Paris for a while.”

Amy Thomas
,
Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light
Purchasing the Navigo Découverte for the first time!
A month in Paris, what a luxury and how lucky can one get!  We left Munich and with a change in trains at Stuttgart we were on our way to Paris on the TGV traveling at an average of 300kms an hour.  Excited that we were headed to Paris!  We had done our research and were planning on buying the Navigo Decouverte pass on arrival in Paris.  A one month pass is issued only from the 1st of the month for the whole month and we were arriving on the 1st, so I guess we were just lucky as we did not know this.
On arrival at Gare de Este, we headed to the information office and did our normal enquiries of maps etc and asked to be directed to the counter that issues the Navigo Decouverte Pass.  The lady at information gave us some directions and we walked towards the counter.  There was a long line of people so had to wait our turn.  Only to be told that this was not the correct counter, and that too, in sign language as the lady behind the counter did not speak English. So for the next one and half hour, feeling very frustrated at not being able to communicate, we found the office and finally managed to buy the pass.  Being worldly travelers, we thought we could get to our apartment on the metro since we had the pass.  What we did not take into account was that Paris metro is one of the oldest in Europe, and not all stations have elevators or escalators.  We had to haul our bags, even though we have little luggage, up and down stairs in all three stations.  Hello, France! When are you updating the stairs to escalators in these stations?  Finally, we reached our apartment exhausted at 7.30pm. It had been a long day!
Summing up Paris!
After the orderly way of life in Germany, my initial reaction was,” I don’t think I like Paris”.  The next two days went in figuring out how to navigate the metro and the buses.  To find the closest grocery stores and food places.  It’s now been more than a week and we have settled into our apartment.  To sum up Paris, it is exotic, unusual, different, striking, snobbish, friendly, charming, fascinating, colorful and very fashionable.   To fit in with the locals, I bought a hat, oh so Parisienne!   Most men seem to wear a scarf, so Hemant bought a scarf. Now we were set to take on Paris!
Monsieur
Madame
When nature calls!
Since we had seen most of the museums and attractions in Paris on our prior trips, we decided to explore some of the areas we had not been to before by foot. Sit at cafes drinking coffee or wine and ogle at people passing by, without a care in the world!  Even the restroom doors have fancy pictures reading Madame and Monsieur. Be prepared to pay at least .50 cents to go.  Or you will have to buy a coffee so you can use the toilet. I guess we take it for granted in the US that there would be a toilet available, anytime, anywhere. Add this to your budget if you don’t you can end up paying as much as 80 cents just to go.
It is the Culture!
I guess its European culture, but young kids smoking was a regular scene here.  I guess sitting outdoors in cafes we have been inhaling that second-hand smoke.  Wish I could just pull the young one aside and ask ” Why do you smoke? Do you know how much harm your are doing to your health?” But I kept quiet, watching this, as according to the locals  it is  “normal” behaviour. We spoke to some people who were from Morocco at the table next to us and they said that almost all kids smoke.  I am surprised that this has not changed here in Europe yet!
So Many Monuments to see!
Montmartre is amazing! We went to Sacre Coeur,  a fabulous Roman-Byzantine church which is at the second highest point on a hill in Paris.  From its front courtyard, you can see most of Paris, a super view!  Montmartre is always a busy place filled with tourists.  Small streets lined with cafes and boutiques, as everywhere else in Paris, very hard to resist not going in, to even take a peek. We took the Funicular as we had the bus pass which was valid on it to go up to the church. There is also a Montmartre Bus that does a loop from outside Pigalle Metro. Saved us from walking up!  We also enjoyed tasting wine and food at the wine and food festival outside the Sacre Coeur.  Wines from all over France were being offered for tasting! Local French food was being served for meals. We tasted a few wines, Hemant had oysters, a delicacy.  He said after the first one it was fine, he did not mind the different taste.
We finally got a clear sunny day to go and see St. Chapelle.   As you climb the stair to the first level, your jaw will drop in amazement. It’s ALL windows; 15 gloriously colored stain glass panels shooting 50 feet up. We also went to see the  former prison in Paris, the Conciergerie.
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A Modern city is hidden behind historic facades. The golden glow of the sun going down lighting the stone buildings, the river Seine that you can cross over the many bridges and stop to view the city for a brief moment over a bridge and transform your day which will last an eternity in your memory.  The Seine flows through Paris past the most captivating historical buildings, a very urban setting. Walking along the Seine is fun. The roadside Art displays and the diversity of people, this city enthralls in every moment.
Food ” to die for”!
Bakeries, pastries, chocolate, ice cream, coffee, wine shops and specialty shops will lure you every step of the way. Patterserie’s and Boulangeries invited you to try the decadent sweets every 10 yards.  It is difficult to stop oneself from entering the store. Once you go in you have two choices.  Make up your mind quickly what you want, buy it and scoff it down. Or just drool and leave quickly because if you don’t you will end up eating everything that is “literally to die for”. Macaroons a French decadent sweet is available everywhere, but only the French know which is the best.  Something I still have yet to figure out, as to me they are all exquisite.  My favorite sweet shop was the
Maison Georges Larnicol
on 132 Boulevard Saint-Germain. My favorite, the orange Kouignettes tangy yet rich and delicious. The best way I can describe it is the middle part of a croissant, folded with delicious French butter and caramelized sugar, with the outside being similar to the crispiness and flakiness of a phyllo/filo pastry with flavours like orange, pistachio, chocolate etc. I would highly recommend trying one in Paris. I was told by the shop assistant that they are a delicacy from Brittany in France.
Maison Georges Larnicol
All the goodies
Cakes
More cakes
and more cakes
My favorite
Macroons
Fauchon the ultimate in Chocolate
Display of macroons
We went to Jardin du Luxembourg or the
Luxembourg Garden
.  And of course, the Arc de Triomphe and a walk down the Champs-Elysee, to sit by a roadside cafe and watch the world go by.  It seems that the cafes are always filled with people, whichever district you go to. St. Germaine de Pres is the more popular food area of Paris, with lots of cafes and restaurants.   We saw artists, drawing pictures on the streets. Paris lit up for us on our trip  with the Bateaux-Mouches, especially the Eiffel Tower which had twinkling lights on at night besides the regular lighting.  What a treat!  Yes, we had started liking our stay in Paris. Paris grows on you!  Like any big city, it has its downside, lots of litter and garbage bins outside on certain days.   But the Boulangeries and Pattersserie’s makeup and keep your taste buds tingling and longing for more. There are several local markets three times a week in different areas.  The Markets are always interesting as you find local delicacies.  We were very surprised that there is a “Little India” and “China Town” in Paris.  Probably the only city that you can step off a bus or a metro and see art in every corner, or a sculpture that you recognize or see Avenues with wrought iron balconies.
For the Shopaholic!
Staircase at Swaroski Crystal shop
An old shopping Passage
Galleries Lafayette
The dome at Galleries Lafayette
Shopaholics beware!  One visit to the glamours Galleries Lafayette, Printemps, Bon Du Marche or the boutiques down Rue de Rennes or the Champs Elysee will empty your wallets before you know it. Admiring the interior dome at the Galleries Lafayette is not enough.   You should also visit the terrace. Paris is a shopper’s Paradise!  Being October, beautiful coats and wraps were on display.  You have to experience wearing a cape, and feel like a “Dame de France”. And boots, the red boots, to strut in those would be ultimate in fashion!  Yes, the temptation is everywhere in Paris. Not just the clothes and shoes, but the housewares, period furniture and even antique furniture for which I might need to win a lottery!
French Language!
Henry Higgins said in the movie My Fair Lady, ” The French don’t care what they say actually as long as they pronounce it properly”.  I remembered this and had a good  laugh.  If you are a person who does not speak the language, like me, it’s strange how the letters are just swallowed.  Both Hemant and I would practice the names of the bus stops, especially one on our route which was ” Armorique – Musée Postal”, or “Michel Debré”.  We will not forget these names and how they are pronounced when the bus arrives at the stops.
There is but one Paris!  Our first two weeks were beautiful with lots of sunshine and good weather, a cold snap has hit now in the third week with a bit of rain.
This is not going to stop us from going out because “We are in Paris, of course!”
The last week has warmed up again and we got a couple of days with sunshine Merci beaucoup, Paris!.  We have been strolling the streets of Paris for the last few days, admiring the sun setting and lighting on those fabulous buildings at night with their wrought iron balconies, the bridges to cross the Seine day and night and the majestic Eiffel Tower sparkling at night. It is not goodbye, but
Au Revoir Paris
!
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Bus exceptionnelle à Paris !

Ride the bus with Hemant
Paris boast one of the oldest metro and bus network.  Green buses transport you from one place to another with electronic information on when the bus is arriving at the bus stop.  Have you ever tried to find out if the local bus drives past the local city attractions?  Those of you who have already traveled this local transport in Paris will know that there are things that can unnerve or infuriate you.  Like no escalators or elevators at the metros.  Causing difficulty not just for the disabled people but for the friendly visitor who arrives in Paris.  The Métro as we found was fast, however,  I would rather walk the streets than the long tunnels that one has to walk through sometimes.  Time is always a factor, if you have only a few days in Paris then getting from one place to another fast is important.  I still recommend the bus. It will take a bit longer to get where you want to go, but you also see Paris like a local. Reason being the buses drive through street you would not sometimes walk. Riding the bus is also a picturesque way to experience Paris, compared to the all-underground Métro.
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Long trailer buses that the drivers navigate the narrow streets in Paris!
The bus drivers have to be highly commended as well. The long double trailer buses that they drive through narrow streets and dodge smaller cars and vans parked along the side is something to be admired.  Especially the buses that go through the arches at the Louvre.  I always wonder how it does not scrape the sides.  The bus is a bit more friendly to the traveller.  There are a special spaces and seats for the seniors, disabled, pregnant women or women with pushchairs.  The local protocol was very heartwarming.  Most people get up and give up their seat to a senior. This courtesy is not seen in many countries. Consideration has been given to the disabled by providing a retractable bridge between the body of the bus and the footpath.  Buses also tilt towards the footpath to let passengers board and alight.
There are so many advantages of going by bus. Why travel underground when you can see all the exciting sights of Paris around every corner from a bus? We have several convenient bus routes from where we are staying.    Maps of the bus routes are posted on the bus stops.  Please remember that bus service is limited in the evenings and Sundays.
Passe Navigo Découverte
Weekly pass can be bought any day, however,  valid only starting on a Monday.  The
Navigo Découverte
monthly pass is valid from the 1st of the month till midnight of the last day of the month.  ( You will need a photograph  for both these passes)  A single standard fare ticket is valid for 90 minutes on any Metro, bus or RER and can be purchased at a metro station or from some
Tabac
shops. If you buy the ticket on the bus it is only valid for the bus and not for the transfers on Metro or RER.  Kind of strange but that is how it is.
Passe Navigo Découverte
must be swiped on the box as you step onto the bus or at the entrance at the metro or RER stations. A single ticket is to be inserted into a ticket machine that you will see as soon as you enter the bus.  It will be stamped and,
Voilà!
You’re set.
Here are three easy and interesting routes on the bus. Bus nos 69, 95 and 42 cover all the main attractions in Paris, and if you get a ticket for these buses and do the loop, you will get an idea of what you want to see and do in Paris. An easy way  to discover Paris by traveling like the locals do.  The
Navigo Découverte
pass was really handy for us as we could get on and off buses anywhere. All we had to do was to swipe the pass on entry every time on buses, metros or RER’s. We had a luxury of being in Paris for a month. So if we took the wrong bus we could hop off and retrace our path without worrying about buying extra fares.
An example,  the 69 bus route and you will find that it goes east to west or west to east. You will cover most of the sights in Paris. Click on the map and check out the route.
Since we were in the 15 Arrondissement, the 62 was at our doorstep and connected to 42 bus route at Javel.Bus 42 cuts diagonally across Paris going through the Champs de Mars and around the Eiffel Tower along the Left Bank of the Seine,across the Seine on the Pont de l’Alma bridge,up the lower Champs-Élysées, through Place de la Concorde, around Place de la Madeleine and Église Madeleine, past the grand Garnier Opéra andPlace de la Opéra.
Traffic can be crazy during the evenings and weekends.  We did not have a car but can only imagine that navigating the roads that include Medieval lanes, Angled avenues and Roundabouts can be a challenge.  What a blessing that we let the bus driver do all the driving and not have to tackle the crazy traffic of Paris inner city. We saw Paris mostly on foot, however, a bus was always available when needed.

October in Paris – Autumn is beautiful

On the bank of the Seine River
At the Champs Elysee.
Being in Paris is great ANY time of the year! But we loved the Autumn season that we had chosen to be here. The entire mood takes on a new feeling with the changing seasons.  We are loving the delicious cooler weather after the heat in Germany in September. Paris is beautiful and full of color in October, and has many art shows and fashion week going on as well.
Eiffel Tower in Fall
The leaves falling and changing color with the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower is a memory that will last forever.  Strolling through the streets of Paris with the leaves changing hues that could be captured in a watercolor painting. There are more locals and not that many tourists.  It’s a season to drink hot chocolate and eat chocolate crepes as you wander the streets. Yes, you might even find a table at a roadside cafe without too much trouble.  Some of the cafes have glass fronts so if it does get a bit chilly, you can still people watch through the glass.  We always have an umbrella handy just in case it drizzles a bit.
We have bought tickets to go the St. Chapelle.  But still waiting for that sunny day to see the stained glass, which we are told is best seen when the light filters through.  (Did you know that you don’t have to stand in line for the tickets at St. Chapelle.  The Tourist office has tickets that can be purchased and then you do not have to wait in the long line that seems to be always there at this location.)  The Eiffel tower still lights up the sky although its peak is sometimes in the clouds.  The wind picks up a bit at times making it a bit cooler.
While we wait for that sunshine, we will enjoy the yellow, orange and red hues in Paris. How can you not?
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Berlin – Eclectic , Creative, and Evolving

REICHTAG
It had been a very hot summer in Germany.  From the time we were in the Koblenz area the temperatures were soaring.   This unusual heatwave was not anticipated by us.  There were days when we felt we should be in the swimming pool all day long instead of roaming the streets in Germany.  During our stay in Oldenburg, I had a bit of an infection.  Thought it was a bug bite.  By the time we reach Berlin, which was late evening, I was running a slight temperature.   This small bite that I thought turned out to be an abscess and I had to get immediate medical attention.  I must say that the doctors and the hospital in Berlin were really efficient.  I never thought I would be ill during my travels.  But, I got the problem taken care of.  Happy to say that I was on the mend and still trying to recover.  I must emphasize at this point that travel insurance is absolutely a must.  Everyone should take it before travel.  This is the one thing that gives you peace of mind during travelling.
On our journey on the train we had a passenger who we talked to.  She was a Berliner.  I mean she used to live  in East Berlin before the wall came down.  We asked her many questions, and she said that life in East Berlin was not really difficult for her and her family.  She was well educated and had a job and so did her husband.  The only difference she said was that they did not have the variety of food that was then available in West Germany, e.g. there would be only one type of bread.  That was very interesting to hear from someone who had lived there.  She also told us that when the wall came down, they heard it at night and just went to sleep, thinking “here we go again, someone trying to pull a fast one on us”.  After waking up the next morning they found out that it was true.  She did say that the Berlin Wall coming down had been good for her Son, it had given him lots of opportunities.
Our excitement was immense as we took the train from Oldenburg our last stop before Berlin.  Since we had never been to Berlin before, we did not know what exactly to expect.  Reading about it gave us information on all the history that the city has.  Germany is so well connected and organized, and so was Berlin.  The transport network was convenient and the food exceptional.  Berlin is really a melting pot of cultures.  Food is exotic, you can get everything your heart desires.  We also went to a local park to find out that there is  Thai food cooked food served every weekend.  I am surprised that something like this is allowed and that there are no hygiene rules applied to this picnic area that locals love.
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Berlin the capital of Germany is a city of art, artists and museums.  If you need a quick history lesson, head to the Reichstag, the seat of the Parliment.  As you walk up the dome you can hear the commentary about the city and its buildings. A city that has a mix of  historical buildings and modern architecture.  When you first think of Berlin what comes to mind is the Brandenburg Tor.  For decades, this has been a symbol of division, the beating heart of this city. The famous gate depicting the goddess of victory, Victoria, riding a four-horse chariot was added in 1794. After the Berlin Wall was built in 1961, Brandenburg Gate became impassable for 28 years, and now is a signature attraction of the unification of East and West Germany.
At Brandenburg Tor
Reichtag
Inside the done of the Reichtag
Checkpoint Charlie
Remains of the Berlin Wall
Sunset from the Berliner Fernseherturm
A city that is continuously evolving with creativity, art, inspiration and culture.  It is a bustling city as well as laid back.Hackesche Höfe is in the city Mitte district and has a very easygoing and relaxed feel to it.  Little cafe and boutiques line all the streets.  The Fernseherturm (TV Tower) is a point from where a 360 degree view of Berlin is seen. We went around sunset.  We allowed ourselves to be inspired, seduced and  enchanted by this city, a perfect excuse to come back and visit.

Oldenburg – with side trips to Bremen and Hamburg

As I looked out the window of my friends house on arrival I saw this gorgeous creature
scampering around in the backyard. I had never seen a brown squirrel before and her prancing around was lively and infectious.
A 10-day trip to visit friends brought us to Oldenburg a university town in northern Germany.   I was also going to meet up with my brother and mother here after almost 6 months.   We reached Oldenburg by train from our last location Rhens.  The country changed its scene from vineyards to farmland.   A Large expanse of the land being farmed with agricultural products.  It was lovely to see the green fields in varied shades.  We were greeted at Oldenburg Station by my friend and my brother.  It was nice to be welcomed and a luxury to be driven home.  We had not sat in a car since leaving California in July.  Once we reached home, my mother was there and life was complete in my little world.
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We talked and chatted about old times, schools and teachers who taught us.  It was going down memory lane and reliving the past with old friends and family.  Our friend has a lovely house that he has recently bought and renovated.  It had a big backyard.  On our second evening there, he said, “we are all going to play Croquet today”. I had never played Croquet before and he said he would explain the rules.  So, after explaining the rules we played a fun game not one but two rounds that gave us giggles as we played and made us look back on our younger days when we lived in the same town together.  We bonded once again with our mother being our center of the universe.
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We did two side trips in those 10 days, one to Bremen and the other to Hamburg.  We saw the “Bremen musicians” statue in the center of Bremen. A story that I had read when I was in high school.  In Hamburg, I was very interested in seeing “
Miniatur Wunderland
“, a miniature train museum.  We spent 3 hours in this Wunderland and were not disappointed.  The intricate detail of the railways and the locations made it very interesting and so realistic.  Anyone interested in trains and planes should visit this museum.  It is fascinating, the detailed miniature buildings with people, shops etc is all in the landscape.
Our 10 days flew by in Oldenburg and is now a memory that I will cherish forever.  Thanks to my friend Ajay and his wife Sujata who were gracious hosts, we could spend quality time with our mother.  Oldenburg is a nice town with great shopping and a nice pedestrian zone for walking.  We saw this little elephant in boots. Don’t you think he is Super?

Magic of the Rivers – Mosel, Rhine and Lahn

Rhens main center with the Town Hall on the extreme right.
We left the Mosel ( Moselle) region and moved to the Rhineland side of the river.  Our place of choice was Rhens, which is 10 minutes by bus from Koblenz.   When we made the decision to book our apartment in Rhens, we had no idea of what the town would be like.   We booked the apartment almost 8 months in advance.  We took the train from Cochem, had to change the train in Koblenz and arrived in Rhens train station as planned.  Only two other people got off at Rhens with us and before we could check where the exit was they disappeared.  The main building of the train station was closed.  Almost all small stations are not economical to run and hence Deutsche Bahn has no staffing in these stations.  You can purchase your tickets at an automatic ticket machine.  There is no information window to check where to go.  So, we dragged our bags went around one end of the station and asked a young lady sitting on a bench for directions.  She told us to go up the road and turn left and keep going till we see number 13.  With her directions, we dragged our small carry on bags and arrived at No 13. Happy to see a name we recognized on the door bell we push the button.  A tall man answered the door and said he was waiting for us.  He introduced himself as the owner of the apartment and showed us in.  He was very friendly and with a lot of enthusiasm showed us how the various items work in the apartment. Our next agenda item is always to find the nearest grocery store so that we can stock up the fridge and get all the necessary items like milk, tea etc and not have to wake up early on the first morning to run to get it. We were told how to get to the 3 supermarkets in town. They were about 500 meters from the apartment. Very handy and easy to find.  Once our grocery items were home we settle down for the evening.
We had researched before we arrived in Rhens that we would have to buy the VRM 3 day mini group tickets to travel around and see the region. The VRM 3 day ticket for 2 people costs euro 43.50, and you have to use it in 3 consecutive days.  The area map gives you the train lines and bus lines that can be used and the stations it covers.   Almost all  who come to this region see the main towns on the Rhine i.e. Boppard, Bacharach, Rudesheim, Mainz etc.  We touched most of these places briefly and they were all picture postcard perfect with tourists and large boats bringing in floating hotels for more people to enjoy the locale.
Let me tell you a bit about Rhens. A small town population of 2800.  3 supermarkets. No gas station. 2 hairdressers. 1 information office (open only half a day). 2 fast food Donor Kabap and Pizza joints.  2 Pubs. We came across 2 restaurants. Roter Ochse and Rathousechenke (half chicken only restaurant).  Now you will laugh at the second, but it’s true. The place only serves half a chicken with bread and nothing else by way of food. Not my kind of place as I am a vegetarian. But the locals love it and it’s busy every evening.
Herr Werner (Owner)
Herr Horst ( father)
As for the Roter Ochse, it is historical,

Restaurant


.  Opened in 1935 by Herr Rudolf Kochhaeuser, succeeded by his son and currently run by  the grandson Herr Werner Kochhaueu.  The owner told us that his father (Herr Horst Kochhaeuser) hunts and he cooks the game and serves it in his restaurant.  So it could be Wild boar or Venison because that is what his father hunts. People in Rhens are of an older school of thought.  We went to dinner and Der Werner made a special dish for me, and Hemant had a feast of a variety of meats from wild boar to venison.  Visiting this restaurant gave us a different experience with very personal service.
It’s been rather unfortunate that the few businesses that were here have had to close down. The culprit is the closeness of Koblenz and the locals patronizing the businesses there.  Also they seem to have a resisstance to change of any sort.   One main street runs through the town.  There is an old city wall that dates back to 1700 and the old town has been declared a UNESCO heritage site. There is still a partial old wall that stands around the old city.
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The apartment we rented in Rhens is owned by a very nice couple Dietland and Ralf Wronna.  The apartment was clean & spacious.  They had everything in the apartment.  Even the kitchen had tea, coffee, sugar etc, all the basics that one needs when you arrive home.  Yes, it did feel like home and we were very comfortable.  The weather for the first few days was warm and they gave us a big fan which circulated air all through the apartment. We did not feel hot inside the apartment while all of Europe was sweltering in the heatwave.  The bus stop was right outside the door.  During the weekdays the bus runs every half hour and every one hour at the weekends.  It takes you right into the middle of the Koblenz city. When coming back especially if you have a few things in your hand, the bus drops you off right in front of the apartment door.  It is very convenient.   We were here for 12 days and bought  2 sets of 3-day mini group tickets for the VRM network.  We exhausted ourselves walking and taking in every sight possible and the and then we took a 3 day break.  We booked this apartment through VRBO.
http://www.vrbo.com/2324329ha
.  Tell them you saw it on
http://globezing.com/
They also have a single room next to the apartment with 2 single beds. All complete with a small kitchenette and a full bathroom.  Once again a very affordable and nice place to spend a quiet few days.
Wonderful evening with Ralf and Dietland Wronna.
On one such weekend, Dietland and Ralf asked us out. They offered to take us to see some wineries and to drink the local Riesling.  We went to a small town called Mosel Weiss near Koblenz.  The town was small and quaint.  We had a lovely evening with them and ended up back in Rhens at the Roter Ochse.  Ralf and Dietland had arranged a lovely farewell dinner for us on the last night.  Ralf a great cook, and Dietland an amazing hostess.  We made two new friends from this little town called Rhens.
During our stay here, I  seem to have reverted back to my student days in Germany in 1981.  I seem use a lot of “danke”,”doch”, “ach so”, “genau” and words that come so naturally, that I can say I am now a German.  Even though I have not mastered the language, it’s fun to see expressions on German peoples faces and some even saying, ” no you speak good German”. I can related to talking in metric and spontaneously saying “MIT GAS” even before they ask “Still or mit gas” when I ask for water.  Choosing a drink has become complicated.  Its not just a simple, beer or wine please, but a selection of what kind of beer and not just white or red wine, but, trocken (dry), halbtrocken (halfdry), Lieblich( another in-between choice) add to that the various types of Schnaps.
OUR MEMORABLE DAY TRIPS FROM RHENS
We made full use of the 3-day passes and visited almost all the little towns on the train routes.  We enjoyed the following places the most. Everyone goes to the Rhine and Moselle Rivers, we decided to explore the Lahn river as well.
1. PFALZGRAFENSTEIN CASTLE – on the Rhine River.
We had always wanted to go to the Pfalzgrafenstein Castle which is in the middle of the Rhine river.  The only way to do this was to go by train to Kaub on the West bank of the river.  From Kaub, a small ferry ride (euros 2.5 per person) took us to the island where Pfalzgrafenstein Castle was, with its perfect white, black and rust colors inviting us to go in.  Its costs euros 3 to explore this castle. An audio device can be rented for 1 euro so hear the history.  I read the  fable for this castle on this website
http://great-castles.com/pfalztale.php.
I found it very interesting and wanted to go and see the castle more than ever.  We were not disappointed.  Not many tourists go to Pfalzfrafenstein and its the only place on the Rhine that you can go and be on the beach of this island on the river.  It is also one of only two castles in the Rhine area that were never destroyed.
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2.  BAD EMS and der Lahn – on the Lahn River
Bad Ems is in the Rhine-Lahn rural district and is famous for its sauna, thermal baths and health and wellness facilities. Europe’s leading Ayurveda clinics provide a wide range of treatments here as well.  This was a summer residence for various European monarchs.  This town is situated in the most picturesque region of the Lahn valley. We spend our time walking along the gardens of the river and ended up at the baths to take a peek and see what they looked like.  In an old setting with Palaces and Churches, we found this very modern spa and thermal swimming pools at the end of our walk.  A Russian church is on one side of the river bank while the large Palace ( which is now a hotel) on the other.
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3. Limburg an der Lahn – on the Lahn river
Old wall of the Schloss
St. Georges Cathedral
Schloss Limburg from the courtyard
Cathedral from the back
Streets of Limburg
Restored house leaning right.
Inside the Cathedral
Limburg was actually not on our itinerary for a visit.  But on the last day we decided to make the trip, and we were very happy to have come here.  The St. Georges Cathedral or Limburger Dom as they called it in Germany sits on top of a hill and is visible from far away.  The Limberger Schloss is behind the Cathedral.  The preserved wall is seen from its courtyard.  In the old town, narrow streets have well-preserved partial timber buildings. Some tilting so much that it’s a wonder that they are still standing.
4. Remagen
We crossed over in a ferry from Erpel after our visit to Linze.  A 5-minute ferry trip took us to the west bank of the Rhine to Remagen. Remagen has a long promenade along the Rhine, and is steeped in WWII history as the Remagen bridge was an important crossing for the allied forces.  Several attempts were made by the Germans to destroy the bridge.  Several attemps by the Germans to blow up the bridge had failed and the allies captured it and were able to move men and equipment across the Rhine.  However, the weakend bridge did not survive for long and ultimately collapsed, resulting in the death of 6 american soilders.  The two towers on either side of the Rhine still stand as a memory of the advance that was made during WWII.  The tower on the Remagen side is now a peace museum with the complete history of what happened there during the war.  Remagen was also home to 250,000 German prisoners at the end of the war.
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Cochem a Gem on the Mosel

Saying goodbye to Ghent was hard.  We seemed to have settled down in our apartment and the month just flew by. With promises to ourselves and the landlord that we will return, we left for our next destination. Our journey to Cochem took us via Luxembourg, which was a beautiful city. We got an opportunity to visit Chateau Vianden.  A short trip and we found ourselves getting off at Cochem (Mosel).  Our landlord had come to pick us up at the station. We were thrilled with that, because when we reached the apartment we realized it would have been an uphill walk and we would have been exhausted.  Our apartment was on the first floor ( second floor as per American standards).  The one bedroom apartment had a terrace with a beautiful view, overlooking the lovely Mosel river.
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We had now arrived from an urban setting into a fairly rural area.  A relaxed pace of life. Only three grocery stores two on one side and one on the other side of the river.  A wine region with rolling vineyards and Schloss Reichsburg majestically sitting on top of the hill.  Sitting on our terrace we had the view of the Mosel and the Castle. What more can one ask?  The old town or Alte Stadt is nice to walk around, its cobbled streets and twisted alleys and historically restored buildings date back to the 1700’s.  We walked by many wine shops that invited us to taste the local Riesling wines that are absolutely excellent.  The shop owners will explain the various types of wines and the grapes used for the wines. Did you know that the slopes and height also matter to make a certain kind of Riesling?  Some shops require you to make a prior reservation to get a lesson in winemaking. You will get to taste the wine too! And of course, to buy some to take back with you.
Our first meal the day we arrived was in a restaurant on the Mosel ( http://www.davinci-cochem.de/). It was 2 minutes walk from our apartment.  The people were friendly and we got a table overlooking the Mosel.  At the next table was a couple from the Netherlands. They were also in Cochem for a vacation.
We had a lovely evening with good company to talk to. Of course we talked a lot about our travels and theirs! A common subject, right?  By the end of the evening ,we had exchanged contact information and agreed to keep in touch.
Water flooding through the Locke.
as it fill the Locke
A great experience
The next day went for a walk into the old town.  The promenade is beautifully lined with benches and decorated with flowers to have a quiet break and watch the ships going by.  The river has a lot of traffic. Not only do you see river boat cruise ships but also barges that carry commodities.  It’s fascinating how they navigate the shallow river. There are 12 locke’s on the Mosel river. If you have never been through a locke, this would be a great experience.  The boat is guided into the locke and depending on which side you are coming from the locke is flooded or drained to allow the boat to continue.  It was a very exciting experience for us as we have never seen this. We took a boat trip to the next township called Beilstein.  It was probably the smallest place we had visited so far.  Beautiful vineyards line the river and the scenery was breathtaking.
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We were in Coche
m at the right time. They had their wine festival and we got to see the festival in Ernst and Cochem. People come out and support their local community.  Besides the lively music, the Mosel produces excellent Riesling wines.  We had an opportunity to sample a few during these festivities. The wine festival last usually 5 days and there is local food sold along with the wine.  In Cochem, there is also a parade with the last wine Queen and Princess in it.  Cochem is a gem on  very central to travel to others places on the Mosel.
We were invited to meet some locals who meet in a restaurant in the old town every Thursday.  The place serves basic food and drinks. It’s the local watering hole for the people here who have known each other for many years.  Our landlady’s daughter owns a cafe in the old town in the historic district. It’s called Emily’s Cafe.  The Mosel can flood and in the old town there is a marking of the years it flooded the city.  As you will notice in this pictures the last flood was in 1993 and way above the doorway.  I can only imagine that the damage would have been extensive.
We went for walks every day, and on one such walk we saw a steep street and started walking up.  Half way up we realized that we were walking up to the Reicheburg Castle on the hill. It was a 400 ft high.  Our reward was the fantastic views of Cochem from the top.  Breathtakingly beautiful Mosel river with a bridge crossing and vineyards surrounding it, Cochem is a place one sees in picture postcards. You decide from these pictures if you think the same.
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We had one more must-see place on our list. Trier.  On the day we left Cochem we took the train to Trier. This city is on the border of Luxembourg and Germany.  It is the oldest city in Germany, a treasure trove of Roman ruins. The moment we walked towards the old city we could see the enormous entrance gate Porta Nigra ” Black Gate” one of the only four gates still standing. It is the only city where a Cathedral and a Church are next to each other.  Part of the gate was converted into a church but during  Napolean’s time had all non-Roman additions removed.  Trier is a walkable city.  Ruins of Roman baths and a Coliseum still exist. The Palace gardens are beautifully maintained. Also the birthplace of Karl Marx.  It was also the seat of the Roman Emperor Konstantine.
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Our brief stay for a week, having enjoyed the fine wines, food and the festive atmosphere of Cochem it was time to move to our next destination.

4 Side Trips to take from Ghent.

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BRUSSELS:
The Grand-Place is a must to visit.  A grand collection of public and private buildings from the 17th century. The most interesting we thought were the Guilds that were created for trade during this period.  Each building has its original number on it indicating what commodity it was for. The side streets offer good food and drink.
BRUGGE:
is a stunning city with winding canals and cobbled streets, chocolates and a variety of beers.
We walked, of course, but Brugge offers canal boat rides and horse drawn carriages to take you around the city as well.
There are many restaurants offering beer sampling to get an idea of the 1500 beers that Belgium has to offer.  Sitting by the canal watching the tourist wandering the streets, it’s easy to down a couple of beers. But watch out otherwise you will find out the hard way that there are light and strong beers.  Mostly high alcohol beers. The locals rarely eat in the square as it tends to be pricey.  But the restaurants offer the local delicacy the Flemish Stew which is cooked in beer.  If you have a sweet tooth, many cafes offer freshly made waffles with powdered sugar, whipped cream, smothered in chocolate or all three combined together for a decadent experience.  We were happy to have some friends with us to sit by a canal and watch the white swans floating.
ANTWERP:
if you like gems, a must to go to the Diamond District, just outside the main central train station. Bear in mind that during summer the Diamond Bourse is closed. However, we were lucky to see how diamonds were cut and polished as one workshop was open that polished and set diamonds. The Fashion district would be very interesting for the shopaholics. We came across a beautiful old building that was converted into a mall. The ceilings were amazing.
YPRES:
another place to try and understand if the lives of so many were worth the cause.  The number of soldiers who gave their lives during the war are laid to rest in Flanders Field.  A commonwealth cemetery managed by commonwealth countries and the land donated by Belgium. We found graves of New Zealand and Indian soldiers during this war.  At 8 pm every day, the last post is carried out.  We found graves of New Zealand and Indian soldiers during this war.
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